“A muddy field …? Heavy grain.” I was seated across from Chris, a fledgling bourbon YouTuber who was offering me his notes after taking a careful whiff of Beyoncé’s latest project, SirDavis American Whisky. Not that he knew that: I’d set up a blind tasting with a group of local liquor geeks as my first step in the very fraught task of fairly assessing whether Bey’s new bottle was good enough to justify its $89 price point.
Gathered in the basement of a suburban northern Virginia split-level, we were about as far as spiritually possible from the bars and clubs where the bottle was clearly meant to be enjoyed. But I wanted to know what fellow whiskey obsessives—the sorts of people who would willingly camp in line outside a liquor store at 5 a.m. to nab a rare release—would make of the product. This was the natural place.
After taking a frowning taste, Chris added some faint praise. It was better than the glass he’d tried just a minute before,…
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